Surviving Genoa’s Furnace: The Great AC Installation
Week 2 Update – Boat Projects & More
The Heat Is On (Literally)
August in Genoa has transformed Luna into a floating sauna, with temperatures hitting 101°F and humidity clinging to us like a second skin. We've become experts in creative cooling - living primarily on the flybridge where the breeze still exists, taking multiple icy marina showers per day, and making strategic 5PM gelato runs for essential thermal regulation. Relief is finally coming though, courtesy of the Termodinamica team that arrives each weekday with a convoy of three vans and seven workers who have turned our boat into a labyrinth of pipes and purposeful chaos.
The scope of this AC installation is massive. They're installing fan coils in every conceivable space: three for the bedrooms, two in the living room, one in the kitchen, three in our master suite (priorities!), one in the crew quarters, and even one in the port storage compartment where our lines and fenders normally live. A network of refrigerant lines is being carefully routed from the engine rooms to each fan coil, wrapped in custom insulation sleeves to prevent condensation disasters. Progress reveals itself in small victories.
Just to explain the AC unit a little: We are installing a multi-zone marine air conditioning system from Termodinamica. This AC system is more efficient than a traditional marine unit because it uses individual fan-coils in each room instead of a single central air handler, allowing zoned cooling so you only cool occupied spaces. Unlike ducted systems that lose energy through long air vents, this setup delivers cold air directly where needed via refrigerant lines, reducing wasted power. We are also getting inverter-driven compressors that adjust cooling output smoothly instead of cycling on/off, saving energy (great for our solar system). Additionally, each fan-coil operates independently, improving humidity control in different areas—key for our boat comfort on Luna—while consuming less power overall, which is crucial for our dreams of only running on Solar energy. Once installed it will consume as much energy as running a blender. So essentially, it avoids overcooling, minimizes energy loss, and provides better climate control than a standard single-zone AC.
This week showcased exactly why Hugh’s years as a yacht captain are our secret weapon. While I coordinated with the AC team in our living spaces, Hugh managed the engine room overhaul with the precision of someone who’s done this a hundred times before. His deep understanding of boat systems and knack for spatial planning turned a potential disaster into a smooth, well-executed project.
The engine room reshuffle was a major operation. To fit the new AC chillers, we needed to relocate several key components. Hugh directed the repositioning of the entire watermaker system, moving its high-pressure pump from a flood-prone spot at the bottom of the engine room to a safer, elevated location. Even the manual pump for the tender platform got a new home to free up space (though we’re keeping our fingers crossed we won’t need it). Every adjustment was made with future maintenance in mind—Hugh ensured nothing would be buried or hard to reach later.
His technical knowledge really came into play during the 24-hour service of our twin Nanni engines and ZF transmissions. When the mechanics couldn’t find the special adapter for the oil drain, Hugh knew exactly what they were talking about. He answered every question about fluid specs and service intervals without hesitation, while I listened and learned. (Check back in a few weeks, and I might be the one explaining Nanni engine quirks.)
With Italy’s August holiday shutdown approaching, Hugh’s project management skills were critical. He prioritized tasks, tracked down last-minute parts, and even arranged extra workers for the project. What could have been a frantic scramble turned into a calm, methodical process. This week proved that Hugh’s experience isn’t just helpful—it’s what keeps Luna running smoothly.
Our First Boat Buddies: Serendipity at the Marina
I was lounging in the forward cockpit at sunrise when Hugh found me deep in thought. "What's on your mind?" he asked. "I was just wondering who our first boat buddies will be," I confessed. After a few days of having Luna to ourselves, we were now surrounded by marina life - and I couldn't wait to dive into this floating community. We'd already started recognizing familiar faces in the docks, speculating about who might become our first cruising friends.
The universe answered the very next day when Hugh returned from the gym with Matt and Natalie in tow. Hugh had met them working out - typical Hugh, making friends everywhere he goes ( I love that about him!). Natalie, a sun-kissed LA transplant, had ditched everything eighteen months ago to become a personal trainer aboard Perseus III (whose towering mast dominates our marina view). Matt, her South African counterpart, handles watersports on Dragonfly - Google co-founder Sergey Brin's sleek superyacht. Of course they were both ridiculously attractive - because why not?
But the marina magic didn't stop there. That same afternoon, Erica and Pablo appeared at our dock lines. Hugh had greeted them earlier and invited them to see Luna. Pablo, a born-and-bred Genovese, pointed out his hillside villa overlooking the marina and his trawler-style motor yacht parked nearby. His longtime friend Erica, a pharmaceutical chemistry professor from picture-perfect Pavia (yes, I Googled it immediately), charmed us with stories of university life. Before we knew it, we'd been invited to an authentic Genovese lunch aboard their boat with two other friends.
Just like that, our social sailing life had begun - with the perfect mix of yacht industry insiders and local Italian hospitality. That sunset, as we watched Perseus III's mast sway against a pink sky, it hit me: this is exactly what I'd dreamed about during all those months of preparation. The people, the stories, the spontaneous connections - this is all part of the real adventure.
A Genovese Lunch to Remember
Italians don’t just serve lunch—they stage culinary events. When Pablo and Erica invited us aboard their boat for a midday feast, we learned this firsthand. The moment we stepped onto his boat Golden Days, glasses of local sparkling rosé appeared in our hands, and a table before us with two types of focaccia: one draped with tomatoes, melted cheese, olives, and prosciutto, the other simple and golden with olive oil. Three spreads stood ready for the plain focaccia—sun-dried tomato, garlicky olives from Luigi’s garden, and an earthy artichoke paste. Naturally, we tried them all.
Then came the bruschetta masterclass. They demonstrated the proper technique: first, a vigorous rub of garlic on toasted bread, then a heap of those impossibly sweet Italian tomatoes. (Note to self: Tomatoes here actually taste like tomatoes.) This sparked the first great debate of the afternoon: Should you add cheese to bruschetta? The table divided instantly. Half the group recoiled as if scandalized, while others shrugged—"Ma perché no?" We stayed diplomatically silent, too busy eating to take sides.
We knew better than to fill up on appetizers (our New York Italian friends had trained us well), but resistance crumbled with each new dish. By the time the white wine flowed and the pasta timer was set for exactly four minutes, we were already regretting our enthusiasm. We were already full and the main course was about to be served. But who says no to pesto pasta made from a Genovesian? I wouldn’t dare!
The real surprise came when they discovered Hugh was an author. Lunch abruptly turned into a field trip—we caravaned to the bookstore where he’d signed copies earlier, Pablo and Luigi insisting they get an autograph. Later, they guided us to Unieuro (Italy’s Best Buy) for a TV, because even sailors need movie nights. That evening, we installed the screen and watched The NeverEnding Story on Luna’s salon couch (our first movie) —laughing at the irony of the title after our own endless afternoon of food, debate, and Italian generosity.
Highlights of the week:
Movie Night Aboard: Caught Fantastic 4 in English—equal parts superhero nostalgia and homesickness cure.
Marina Amazon Prime: Delivery drivers rolling right up to our stern like we’ve got a yacht-sized Prime membership.
GIS Grocery Heroes: Our new best friends—they haul the heavy stuff so we don’t have to overload our e-bikes.
Polishing Nostalgia: Buffed Luna’s chrome until it shone, flashbacks to Dad’s Jaguar and my vintage Vespa dancing in my head.
Chinese Food Victory: Found a stellar spot in pasta paradise (no small feat in Italy’s carb kingdom).
Boccadasse Discovery: Stumbled upon this puzzle-perfect cove during an ice cream bike ride—pastel houses, pebble beach, pure magic.
Foreigner Feels: Thrilled by store labels not in English—finally getting that "we’re really abroad" rush.
Limoncello Love: Kiera’s homemade batch ruined store-bought for me forever. Dangerously smooth.
Sunset Upgrade: Scoped out a new breakwall perch—G&T tasting with harbor views coming soon.
Hugh’s Book Milestone: Finished tip-in sheets for Wool UK hardcovers between engine room rescues.
Parakeet Spectacle: Genoa’s wild green rose-ringed parakeets—hundreds swirling at sunset like emerald confetti
